Khaudum - Namibia's last Wilderness
Text and photographs: Willie OlivierSituated way off the beaten track in the south-eastern corner of the Kavango East Region, the Khaudum National Park can justifiably be called "Namibia’s Last Wilderness". It is home to over 4 000 elephants at peak periods, one of the largest populations of the charismatic roan antelope in Southern Africa, packs of wild dog and a wide array of other game and bird species. Although game-viewing forms an integral part of a visit to Khaudum, don’t expect the seemingly endless parade of animals that has made the Okaukuejo waterhole world famous. It is the park’s wilderness atmosphere and solitude that attracts a special breed of visitors.
Game-viewing is most rewarding during the dry summer months when the animals congregate around the waterholes, where viewing decks provide a grandstand view of the surroundings. After the first rains however, the animals disperse widely as there is sufficient water in the field with its pans and Omiramba (the latter being the plural form of the Otjiherero word Omuramba for poorly defined watercourses).
With a checklist of over 300 bird species having been recorded, or are expected to occur, the rainy season is the best time to discover Khaudum’s rich diversity of birds. The number of resident species is swelled by over 40 migrant species between October and April and after exceptional rains, some 50 water bird species are attracted to the pans and the inundated Omiramba.
The southern ground hornbill (restricted to the north of the park), Dickinson’s kestrel, Bradfield’s hornbill, sharp-tailed starling, black-faced babbler and Senegal coucal are among the species to be on the lookout for. The park also attracts some 30 species of raptors, including white-backed and lappet-faced vultures, bateleur, martial eagle and migrants such as the red-footed kestrel and Steppe Eagle.
The revamped Sikeretti Camp in the south of the park is a most welcome development for visitors. Re-opened in July 2021, it has four campsites, each with a unit equipped with a donkey-fired hot shower, wash basin, flush toilet, washing up facility and shaded area. There is also a central fireplace. Safari tents with en-suite facilities and stand-alone braai places as well as washing-up facilities, serve self-catering visitors seeking a bit of luxury in the bush.
Khaudum is not for the fainthearted. You need to be completely self-sufficient with food as well as fuel for the duration of your visit. Owing to the park’s remoteness, parties should consist of at least two reliable four-wheel vehicles. The hard tracks in the south are easily negotiated, but if you plan to travel north of the Nhoma Omuramba to the Kaudom campsite be prepared for Khaudum’s deep, loose sand.
Visit www.khaudum.com.na for more information about Sikeretti Camp.